Thoughts on repetition

Where do you stand on the issue of repetition in sewing? Do you have certain tried-and-tested patterns that you use over and over again, or do you prefer to try new things whenever possible? Anyone who read my last blog post, in which I shared a shirt that was my third version of Butterick 6563 and the fifth garment that I'd made using a particularly lovely Liberty print, would easily guess that I tend towards the first category.

There's nothing that would demonstrate that better in terms of my sewing than my collection of Christine Haynes Emery dresses.

This week I got a new wardrobe, and I decided that it would be fun (small things amuse me!) to initially just hang my Emery dresses in it to see quite how many I had. I thought it was 12 - turns out I'd underestimated myself and the grand total currently stands at 15!

Now, I definitely like to make multiple versions of successful patterns, but this is by far the biggest collection of one single pattern in my wardrobe. While part of the reason that I've made so many is because it was one of the first dresses that I ever made for myself back in 2013, therefore I've had more time to make multiple versions of Emery than of newer patterns, a large part of it is that it's a simple silhouette so when you're wearing it the focus more on the fabric rather than the dress itself. At least that's what I'm telling myself anyway!

Thinking about the patterns that I've made the most, they generally fall into this category. Other frequently used patterns in my wardrobe include the Sew Over It Susie blouse, although most of mine are my scoop neck hack (side note: finding that blog post to link to has uncovered a neglected 16th use of the Emery pattern in the form of a skirt), New Look 6217 (there have been more made since I wrote that post) and the Jennifer Lauren Gable top/dress.

Having a good simple silhouette to showcase a beautiful fabric is definitely welcome to someone like me who tends to be drawn to colourful and vibrant prints.

All this isn't to say that I don't like trying new patterns - I definitely do! My first pair of trousers are sitting waiting to be photographed and will hopefully be appearing here soon. At the moment I've got a toile cut out of what promises to be a super pretty new dress. I'm also thinking of joining in with #sewtogetherforsummer and sewing a jumpsuit or dungarees, which would definitely be out of my comfort zone. So I do enjoy learning new techniques and challenging myself to try different things.

However, there's a big part of me that primarily sews to relax. That part of me enjoys knowing that I already have pattern pieces cut out and adjusted to fit me. That I can just cut into my fabric and then get sewing, safe in the knowledge that I'll have already figured out any possible challenges of the construction process on my first (or second, third, or maybe even fourteenth!) previous version of the pattern.

Emery dresses modelled as they were finished, in roughly chronological order. Plus my changing hair over the years!

So while I'm not entirely in one camp or the other, I tend to like the comfort of the familiar with touches of sparkly newness thrown in every now and then to liven things up. How about you?

Another Butterick B6563 shirt

The other Sunday evening, I was at a loose end and felt like starting a new sewing project. I'd been planning to make a project case for my embroidery but realised I was missing one of the key supplies. With that idea scuppered, I decided to move on to trying out the Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers (one of my Make Nine projects) but when I went to trace out the pattern I found that I'd run out of tracing paper, and I definitely didn't want to cut into the pattern because I was very unsure about what size I'd need to make.

Having been thwarted once again, I went back to the drawing board hoping that it would be third time lucky. The one advantage of having a pile of fabric sitting in the corner of my flat is that there were a few pieces left over from other projects that were therefore already prewashed and ready to sew. One of those pieces was a decent-sized chunk of Liberty tana lawn in the Suzy Elizabeth print left over from a Granville shirt that I made last year (which I now realise made it to my Instagram account, but not onto my blog for some reason).

While this fabric was left from another project so was sort of a "freebie", it is still Liberty and therefore demands a bit of respect and is also potentially my favourite fabric print ever (there's a closeup of it on my Instagram here) so I didn't want it to go to waste. A tried-and-tested pattern was therefore definitely required! Enter Butterick 6563, one of the Patterns by Gertie range.

I made two versions of this cute little shirt pattern last year, so I knew that it wouldn't disappoint. As with my previous two, for this B6563 I also used the cap sleeves from view B and the Peter Pan collar from view C. I fully intend to use the other collar and the sleeveless/puffed sleeved options at some point, but this time I wanted to stick with what I knew would work.

Unsurprisingly, given that I've made this pattern twice before, the sewing process was a breeze. The instructions are clear, and the pattern is relatively simple but still produces a nicely finished garment. As I said in my post about my previous versions, I made a size down from what is recommended for my measurements and that fits me nicely.

Considering the fact that this is a pattern that I've already road-tested and a fabric that I know and love, it's also not a shock that I'm really happy with the finished garment.

Just to prove how much I love this fabric, here's my current collection of garments made using it! In my defence, there are two different colourways and the two tops on the left were both made using leftovers from two of the other garments. And fabric for four of the five garments came from an ebay seller that used to sell precut lengths of Liberty fabrics at significantly reduced prices (sadly they no longer do!). That all makes having five garments in one print acceptable doesn't it? I'm not the only one who uses the same print repeatedly am I?!

Knitting: Lace Hearts Cardi

As has become customary in recent years, I've finished knitting a cardigan just as the temperatures should be about to rise so I won't be wanting to wear it for a few months. Given the grey and chilly day outside my window as I type though, it seems likely that this project will get a few more outings this spring. Here's my Lace Hearts Cardi!

The Lace Hearts Cardi is a pattern by Martin Storey published in the book Knit Red. I picked my copy up secondhand for a few pounds, which was a bit of a bargain considering there are 31 patterns in the book. Admittedly I wouldn't want to make them all, but there are a couple that I definitely like the look of - particularly the slip stitch beret by Ysolda Teague and Debbie Bliss's dolman sleeve sweater.

Anyway, back to the Lace Hearts Cardi! It's a classic, slighty cropped and nicely fitted cardigan that alternates between moss/seed stitch panels and the eponymous lace heart motif on a stocking stitch background. It's knit in pieces and them seamed, which is my comfort zone when it comes to garment knitting. I didn't have any problems at all with knitting the cardigan, and the pattern for the lace hearts is simple and effective, and fairly intuitive to knit.

The pattern calls for DK yarn, and I chose to use Willow & Lark Ramble from Love Knitting in the Bluebell colourway. It's a 100% merino wool - I loved knitting with it and it seems to me like it's soft enough to wear against the skin. If it wears well in this cardigan, I'd definitely like to use it to knit something else. If you're interested in using it yourself, it's worth keeping an eye out for offers - I got mine for 40% off which made it pretty affordable, and I've noticed (and been tempted by but so far managed to resist!) a few similar offers over the last couple of months.

I had to go down a needle size to get gauge for the pattern. Even with the smaller needles, my swatch came out fractionally bigger than it should have been but I did some calculations and worked out that if I knitted the 37" size, then I should end up with a cardigan with zero ease (my bust measurement is 38"). I think my finished cardigan might be a little bigger than that, but I'm happy with the fit so it's all good.

The sleeves are perhaps fractionally longer than ideal, but that's because I knitted a little more than recommended before starting the cap shaping so that the decreases would end ready for me to bind off with a complete heart at the top of the sleeve. I decided I'd rather have a slightly longer sleeve than have one that was just the right length but with the final heart cut off in the middle at the shoulder, and I'm happy with that decision. And it'll help keep my wrists warmer!

All in all, I'm really happy with how my Lace Hearts Cardi turned out, and it's another item that I can cross off my Make Nine list. I'm making way better progress with my Make Nine challenge this year than in previous years - obviously I must have planned it better this year! How are you getting on if you made a Make Nine list?

Cotton + Chalk Zoe Dress Sewing Pattern Review

A couple of weeks ago I wrote a blog post about my fabric stash and the fact that I'm trying to shrink it a bit, and the project I have to share with you today is the first step in that process. This is my Cotton + Chalk Zoe dress.

The Zoe dress was originally included with an old issue of Simply Sewing magazine, but I picked up my copy in a charity shop a month or two ago. It's an easy-to-wear pullover trapeze style dress with side-seam pockets. Not so long ago, I wouldn't have been drawn to this pattern, but I really enjoy wearing the Closet Case Patterns Ebony dress that I made at the end of last year so I thought I'd give this silhouette another try.

This pattern is really simple to sew - there are no darts or fastenings, just front pieces, back pieces, back straps, facings and pockets. Happily for me, that meant that I was able to sew it up at the end of last week just in time to take it away for a long weekend in Cornwall, where these photos were taken.

The instructions are clear and easy to follow. Although it has to be said that with a pattern this simple it would be hard to make the instructions complicated!

In terms of sizing, the pattern recommends a M for my bust measurement (38") and L for my waist and hips. I knew there wouldn't actually be any need to size up in the waist and hips with all the volume in this dress. I checked the finished bust measurement for the M (42") and decided that it would be bigger than I wanted so I actually ended up making a size S and just used a fractionally smaller seam allowance at the underarms (about 1.2cm instead of 1.5cm) to give a little bit more room around the bust. The finished dress fits nicely around the shoulders and bust, and as you can see there's definitely also plenty of space for my waist and hips.

I made the shorter version of the dress (view A), but lengthened it by 10cm. I would say that the illustration on the pattern envelope is a bit misleading about the length of the shorter version as it makes it look knee length, whereas the photos from Simply Sewing clearly show that it's significantly shorter than that.

The fabric I used here is some Robert Kaufman chambray. It's been sitting in my stash for almost 3 years, which I was able to work out because I won it in a giveaway from Simply Sewing with the jersey that I used to make my first Gable top back in 2016. While it's lovely fabric, I always think that black isn't the best colour on me so it took me a while to decide what to make. Recently I realised (not sure why it took me so long!) that if I used it to make a pinafore, wearing a t-shirt under it would mean that the black wouldn't be directly next to my face so would make it easier to wear. In these photos, I've paired it with my cowl neck Freya top.

If you like the look of this dress, the pattern may not be the easiest to come by being as it's from a magazine released over a year ago, but as I type there are a few listed on ebay so it's definitely not impossible to find.

All in all, I'm very happy to have used this fabric at last. The finished dress isn't the most practical thing I've ever made (in case anyone's wondering, it really isn't the best thing to wear on a breezy beach!). However, it's (unsurprisingly) very comfy and the neutral colour will mean that I can combine it with lots of tops, so hopefully it should get a decent amount of wear. Now I just need to make some plans for some more fabrics in my stash!

A little knitting round-up

After realising in the middle of writing my post about my coat last week that I hadn't yet blogged my Land of Sweets cowl, it quickly occurred to me that there were a few other knitting projects that I hadn't shared here too, so I thought I'd do a little round-up of them for you. Let's start with my cowl being as it's what inspired this post in the first place.

The Land of Sweets cowl is a pattern by Helen Stewart that's designed to use the mini skeins from a yarn advent calendar. Instead of doing that, I used 10 mini skeins from a variety of UK indie dyers (they're listed on my Ravelry project page) that I collected together gradually over the course of a year or so. As I had 10 colours, I used each one twice and omitted four of the sections in the pattern so I have 20 stripes instead of the intended 24.

It was a really fun pattern to knit, and became slightly addictive as I was always wanting to get to the next colour change. If you're thinking about knitting this pattern and wondering about how much yarn you'll need, it's worth mentioning that having used each of my mini skeins twice I still had about half of each one left so my Mum is currently in the middle of knitting another cowl for herself using my leftovers.

Going back in time a bit further, last autumn I knitted a Sockhead Slouch Hat for my sister for her birthday. The Sockhead hat is a free pattern by Kelly McClure. It's super simple so was nice and relaxing to knit. The yarn that I used for this one was from Lamington Lass. It's on her Soft Sock base in the Swirling Flock Splash colourway, and I loved it so much that I was "forced" to buy another skein so I'd have some to knit for myself (more on that later!).

I really liked the feel of the hat and decided I'd like one for myself. I don't wear hats that are too slouchy though, so I made mine significantly shorter - I knitted 3 inches of rib, then 5 inches of stocking stitch before starting the decreases. It worked out really nicely and it's a very useful hat - warm enough to keep me cosy, but small enough to be easy to shove in my bag when it's not needed.

The yarn that I used is from What Mustard Made - it's her Bert the Yarn colourway. It's super fun with all the colourful speckles, and the good news for me is that this hat used less than half of the skein so I think I've got enough left for some socks if I combine it with a contrast colour for the heels/toes/cuffs.

Speaking of socks, last year I decided that it would be a good idea to knit socks as Christmas presents for my Dad, siblings and siblings-in-law. I'm not a quick knitter, so thankfully I had the foresight to get started early! I cast on the first pair in August so I effectively had to knit a pair of socks per month to meet my deadline - definitely do-able! In the end I actually managed to finish them well ahead of schedule, which is rare for me as I'm often making Christmas presents right up until the last minute.

I used different patterns for all of them (because knitting the same pattern five times in a row would have been a bit tedious!). Working clockwise from the top left, the patterns for the four above are Vanilla Latte, Atlantic Current, Riverbend and Rockpool. The final ones, which are in the foreground of the first sock photo, were Staggered Path socks.

Once I'd finished knitting all of those socks, I was definitely ready to make something for myself again! As I mentioned earlier, I'd ordered myself a skein of the yarn from Lamington Lass that I used to knit my sister's hat and I decided to combine that with a semi-solid skein from Woolly Mama Yarns to make the Right Around The Corner shawl by Lisa Hannes.

This pattern is beautifully simple but effective, and it was the perfect pattern for me to have to knit on whilst still being sociable when I was with family over the Christmas period. The two yarns that I used also work perfectly together, which is a happy coincidence being as they came from different dyers!

I think that's about all I have to share for today! I really enjoyed knitting all of these projects. In fact I've been really enjoying knitting in general recently. I've got a cardigan almost complete and another shawl and two pairs of socks on the needles, so hopefully I'll have some more finished projects to share with you soon. Have you been knitting anything recently?