French Navy Patterns Vetiver Top

I liked the look of the Vetiver top as soon as I saw the sneak peek photos of it before it was released by French Navy patterns. I added it to my summer sewing plans, but got distracted by making floaty dresses for a while. I'm glad I finally got round to it though - better late than never!

The Vetiver top is a simple princess seamed blouse with a round neckline and narrow buttonstand. The pattern comes with two hem options - a slightly cropped blouse with a ruffle hem, or a longer length with a standard hem. The original top has short sleeves, but there's now also an expansion pack available, which includes long, cuffed sleeves and a cute Peter Pan collar.

The pattern sizing is a bit limited - it's available for bust sizes from 32" to 43.25".

This is the first French Navy pattern that I've made, and I'm happy to report that sewing the Vetiver top was a very enjoyable process. In some ways it's a relatively simple pattern, but the finish that you get if you follow the instructions elevates it a bit I think. All the seams apart from the sleeve seam and hem ruffle (if you're using that option) are French seamed, and that combined with the neckline binding and instructions for mitred corners on the ruffle produce nice neat insides.

I didn't have any problems while I was making my Vetiver top. I felt like the instructions had just the right level of detail, and they were easy to follow. I remember there was one step (I can't remember what now!) that sounded a bit confusing when I looked through the instructions before I started sewing, but it all made perfect sense when I got to that section.

In terms of sizing, my current bust measurement is right between sizes E and F in this pattern. My waist and hip measurements are bang on the size F though, and when I looked at the finished bust measurements it seemed like the F would give me more the fit I was looking for than the E, so I made a straight size F. The only alteration I made was to lengthen the top by an inch (standard for me - I'm 5'9"). 

I'm happy with the fit - it's loose enough to be comfortable, but still with nice shaping.

The fabric I used was sold as a cotton lawn when I bought it, but the weight/drape seems more like poplin to me. I bought it last autumn as a remnant, but sadly the piece I was sent was actually significantly shorter than had been advertised when I bought it - the shop has since closed, but given my experience I wouldn't have particularly recommended it anyway. 

The shorter fabric length meant that I couldn't use it for my original plans, but I had plenty for the Vetiver top. It probably hasn't got as much drape as is recommended for view A, but I wanted to use the fabric so I decided to give it a go. The frill stuck out quite comically when I first finished sewing it, but a good press and a bit of steam sorted that out. The fabric also feels like the kind of cotton that will probably soften up a bit with washing and wear so the drape may improve a bit.

All in all, I'm glad that I finally got around to sewing a Vetiver top. It's a lovely shape to wear, and I enjoyed the sewing process. I'm quite tempted to get the expansion pack and make myself a long-sleeved version for autumn/winter. Watch this space!

Butterick 5792

As the UK was sweltering in record temperatures in July, I decided that I'd like a light lounge dress/nightie to float about my flat in during hot weather. Thankfully for me, I've managed to make it just in time for another heatwave this week!

When the idea for this project came to me, I had a look through my pattern stash and found Butterick 5792. I bought it during a pattern sale a while ago because I liked the pyjamas (view A/F) but the "gowns" that are also included in the pattern seemed like they would do a good job of fulfilling my vision.

The pattern has gowns in knee and maxi lengths, with long-sleeved or sleeveless options and a number of neckline pleating/trim options. None of the options were quite what I wanted straight out of the packet so I ended up combining the features that I liked. I used the sleeveless option with the plain neckline (view E/D) and the length of view B, but with the addition of the ruffle at the bottom of the skirt from views C/E (although I shortened the ruffle a bit to account for the fact that I'd be gathering it into a smaller skirt circumference than you would be if using views C/E). Hopefully that all makes sense!

The pattern was really easy to sew and came together very quickly. The instructions are fairly standard for a commercial pattern - they're clear, but they do assume to some extent that you have some knowledge of sewing and they don't hold your hand too much. There's nothing very complicated about the views that I combined though, so I didn't have any problems.

The pattern comes in two size ranges (XS to M, and L to XXL) and, annoyingly, my bust measurement is well within the M size, but my waist and hips are more towards the L size. I'd bought the smaller size range because I was originally intending to make the pyjamas and in that case I could easily just use the top from this pattern combined with pyjama trousers from another pattern that I already had if necessary. 

I looked at the finished pattern measurements on the pattern paper, and decided that the M should give me just about enough ease around the hips still, but to be on the safe side I blended out from the bust to add a little extra width (about a centimetre on each seam) around the hips. Thankfully that worked out nicely and I'm happy with the fit.

The fabric that I used is a pretty cotton lawn from Like Sew Amazing. It's a lovely print, and the perfect weight for what I wanted. It also seems to have a magical ability not to crease, or to lose its creases very easily, which is always pleasing. Nobody wants to be spending unnecessary time ironing in a heatwave after all, do they?!

I think I managed to do a good job of putting my idea into practice, and I'm very happy that I got the project finished before the temperatures climbed again. The dress is lovely and light to wear - just what I wanted!

Itch to Stitch Lemont Top Sewing Pattern Review

Sewing patterns with interesting details always appeal to me, so it's no surprise that I bought and made the Itch to Stitch Lemont top not long after it was released.

In some fabrics Lemont could look like a fairly ordinary woven top, but hopefully the gingham that I've used here helps show off some of its more interesting features. The top has princess seams and dolman sleeves, with the sides of the front and back bodice and the sleeves all being formed by one single large pattern piece. The sleeves are gently puffed - they're gathered both at the shoulder and into a little bias binding hem band. The neck is also finished with bias binding.

The pattern has regular and full bust pattern pieces, and comes in bust sizes from 311⁄8" (smallest regular bust size) to 63" (largest full bust size).

All the binding and the slip-on style of the top means that you don't need any notions other than thread - there are no fastenings, no interfacing, and there are pattern pieces for cutting the bias binding for the sleeves and neck from the fabric. 

You would need to consider the style of the top when picking your fabric - the way the side panels/sleeves are cut means that you can't use directional prints because either the front or back side panel would end up with the print running upside down. You'd also need to have something that works well on the bias, because the side panels end up being on the bias where they meet the centre front/back panels. I think it's a style that works particularly well in ginghams/plaid/stripes to show off the style lines.

I've made a few Itch to Stitch patterns now (read my Glenelly top review here and my Kalispell dress review here) and the instructions have always been excellent. The same was true for the Lemont top - the instructions are detailed and easy to follow, with clear diagrams to accompany them. I didn't have any problems while I was sewing my top. 

It's rated as a beginner+ pattern, which I think is fair - it's not a complicated pattern, but you might want to have a couple of simple patterns under your belt before you try this because of dealing with fabric on the bias and the gathering into the sleeve hem band.

I made the size recommended for my measurements (size 10, regular bust) with my standard lengthening adjustment (I'm 5'9" and lengthened the top by 1.5"). I think it worked out nicely - the fit is comfortable without feeling oversized.

The fabric I used is a yarn-dyed cotton gingham that I bought from Simple Life Fabrics. It's a lovely quality cotton, and as I mentioned above I think that gingham works really well for this pattern.

All in all, I'm really pleased with my Lemont top - it was a breeze to sew and I think it will be lovely to wear this summer. I'd happily recommend the pattern if you're looking for a simple but interesting project!

Seamwork Benning Dress Sewing Pattern Review

A couple of years ago my wardrobe was mainly made up of fitted-bodice/full-skirted knee-length dresses, but these days I tend to favour looser and longer styles. The Seamwork Benning dress that I have to share with you today falls firmly into the latter category!

The Benning dress has a V-necked bodice with grown-on short sleeves and a two-tiered gathered midi-length skirt. It also, importantly, has pockets! The dress has a relaxed fit and is available in sizes from 32" to 54" bust.

Benning is rated as being a beginner level pattern and I think that's accurate. With no fastenings, no sleeves to set in and a relaxed fit, there's nothing too complicated about the pattern. 

As with all Seamwork patterns, the instructions are also very detailed so should hold your hand through the sewing process. Personally, I didn't have any problems at all and found sewing the Benning dress pretty straightforward and relaxing.

My measurements put me in a 10 at the bust, and 12 at the waist and hips and I followed that sizing for the bodice. 

I made a couple of adjustments - my standard lengthening of the bodice (in this case by 1.5") and I also lowered the bust dart by an inch. That's not an adjustment that I usually have to make, but the bust darts seemed abnormally high on this pattern and looked quite odd when I made a toile. Lowering them by an inch solved the problem. 

As I mentioned above, I blended out to a 12 at the waist for this version, but if I make the Benning dress again then I'd probably take out that extra at the waist and just use the size 10 waist as I have got quite a lot of ease at the waist in my dress.

It's not exactly an adjustment, but another slight change I made was to use the size 16 skirt pieces instead of the 10/12. The skirt on the Benning isn't that full in comparison with some other patterns (even the bottom tier of the skirt will fit on 45" wide fabric for sizes 00 to 16) so using the skirt pieces from a larger size of the dress just gave me a bit of extra fullness.

The fabric I used for this dress is a lovely double gauze that I bought from Like Sew Amazing - sadly it no longer seems to be in stock. It's a really pretty shade of blue and is beautifully soft. I think this is a really good fabric for the Benning dress - it's nice and floaty and wearing the dress feels a bit like walking about in a cloud!

I think my Benning dress turned out nicely - it was fun to sew, and it's so comfy to wear. I think it'll be really nice in hot weather - which is scheduled to be heading our way in a day or two, so I'll be able to test out my theory!

Waves and Wild Kinjarling Dress Sewing Pattern Review

It's been a while since I sewed a new favourite dress, but I think that the project I have to share with you today may be just that! Here's my Waves & Wild Kinjarling dress...

The Kinjarling is a relaxed pull-on style dress with short grown-on sleeves. It has three length options (below the knee, calf and full length), two necklines (round or soft V-neck) that can be finished with either a facing or a binding, in-seam or hip pockets, and two different optional waist ties.

I used the round neck (with the facing), calf length skirt, in-seam pockets and no waist ties.

The pattern comes in bust sizes from 28" to 57" and hip measurements from 33" to 63", and there are separate full bust bodice pattern pieces.

The pattern is rated as being for intermediate level sewists, but I think adventurous beginners would be able to tackle this pattern too - there aren't any fastenings, you don't have to set in sleeves and there's really nothing particularly tricky involved. I think it would also be relatively easy to get a good fit because of the relaxed style.

The instructions have a good level of detail and I found them easy to follow where I used them. I did deviate from the instructions as they have you sew the whole front and whole back and then join them down the side seams to form the dress, whereas I sewed the whole bodice and whole skirt and then joined them at the waist. I don't think there's anything wrong with the method from the instructions, I just personally prefer the process I used.

The instructions have you use French seams on all the seams apart from the waist. I do like French seams because they give you a really nice finish on the inside of a garment, but with the fabric I used I found that the seams around the pockets ended up a bit bulky so if I make this dress again (a very definite possibility!), I'd probably just use French seams on the bodice and use regular seams for the skirt.

I didn't have any problems making my Kinjarling - it was a nice relaxing sewing process!

The size recommended for my measurements (currently bust 38.5", waist 33", hips 43") is L and that's the size I made. The only adjustment I made was to lengthen the bodice by 1.5", which is a normal adjustment for me (I'm 5'9"). I think the fit is good - it's relaxed as intended (and as needed being as there are no fastenings), but it's not too oversized so doesn't feel at all baggy or shapeless. 

The fabric that I used for my Kinjarling dress is a Nerida Hansen cotton that I bought a little while ago from a shop that has since closed. I've been very tempted to try various Nerida Hansen fabrics for a while as they're generally great prints, but they're not cheap! I managed to pick this one up at almost 50% off, and I'm glad I finally got to give the fabric a try. It's an excellent quality cotton and the print really is lovely. 

The Kinjarling is a great pattern for showing off a statement fabric like this as there aren't too many seams to break up the print.

As you may have guessed, I'm quite a fan of my Kinjarling dress. It was easy and fun to sew and it feels lovely to wear. On its first outing it got a number of compliments from strangers and that's always a good sign, isn't it?! Something tells me this might be the first of many versions that I make of this pattern!