Helen's Closet Yanta Overalls

Over the last few months I've been eyeing up various dungaree patterns and toying with the idea of making some for myself. I considered a range of options, but kept coming back to the Yanta overalls by Helen's Closet and eventually I decided that I just needed to give the pattern a go. Spoiler alert: I'm so glad that I did!

The Yanta overalls are a fairly popular pattern in the online sewing community but in case you haven't come across them before, they're a laid-back style with a relaxed fit. The straps are fastened to the front bib using buttons, they have a V-back, pointed front bib pocket, and front and back patch pockets. The pattern also has shorts or trouser views, and an optional side seam zip.

One of the things that eventually made me decide on the Yanta overalls was that I wanted the more relaxed fit of overalls-style dungarees, rather than the more fitted styles that are pretty much trousers with a bib attached (if that makes any sense?!). For me, this is definitely a project where comfort takes priority!

Sewing my Yanta overalls was a really enjoyable experience. The instructions are very thorough and help you to achieve a nice finish. I liked the fact that they include directions for topstitching most of the main seams, which I think helps to make the dungarees look more professional and will also make them more sturdy. 

The only point where I deviated slightly from the instructions was when I was inserting the invisible zip. There's nothing wrong with the instructions - they have you sew the seam and then insert the zip, whereas I've personally always achieved better results with invisible zips when I insert the zip before sewing the rest of the seam so that's what I did here too.

In terms of sizing, I went a bit rogue to get the fit that I personally wanted. My measurements (B 38", W 32", H 42") put me in a 12 bust, and 14 waist/hips. While I did want a relaxed fit, I didn't want the fit to be quite as loose as intended at the waist (I thought that might get draughty!), so I blended between sizes and made a 12 at the bust, blending in to a 10 at the waist and back out to a 14 at the hip. That meant I definitely needed to add the optional zip (you might not need it if making a straight size), but that doesn't bother me at all.

Other than that, the only changes I made were to lengthen the section between the waist and the crotch by an inch and to lengthen the legs by 2 inches. I also lengthened the straps by about an inch. Lengthening patterns is standard for me (I'm 5'9"), and also the pattern intends the trouser length to be slightly cropped, but I wanted them to be full length.

The fabric that I used is an 8oz washed denim from Threadquarters (unfortunately now it looks like it's sold out apart from a remnant). It's a lovely quality fabric and exactly what I wanted for these dungarees  - enough weight to make them appropriate for autumn/winter, but without being at all stiff. I also intentionally chose to use a dark blue denim because the colour will go with just about any top in my wardrobe so I'll have lots of outfit options.

While I wanted the outside of the dungarees to be neutral and practical, I decided to give myself pretty insides and used a contrast daisy print cotton for the facings (partly for aesthetic reasons and partly to reduce bulk) and added a lovely colourful Pink Coat Club label (also now sold out - sorry! But Joy has lots of other great designs).

I also couldn't stop myself from adding a bit of colour on the outside. I wasn't sure what buttons I wanted when I went shopping (thankfully I got that in before the new lockdown in England started), but then I found these unusual metal buttons with an elongated slot style hole rather than the usual small round ones, and I decided they'd look good if I attached them using a rainbow of thread. I slightly regretted that decision when it came to sewing them on and I realised I'd be effectively be doing the same amount of sewing as if I was using 12 buttons rather than 2 (6 threads each on both buttons), but I think it was worth it for the effect.

I was pretty pleased with my Yanta Overalls when I finished them, but now that I've worn them, I love them! As you can tell by the fact that I only finished them a couple of days ago and I've already worn them twice. Like other Helen's Closet patterns that I've made, the pattern was great to sew too. I'm now wondering whether I need a second, more colourful version! What colour would you go for?

Make It Simple Safiya Dungarees Sewing Pattern Review

Hot on the heels of my first project from the book Make It Simple by Tilly Walnes, here's my second. These are the Safiya dungarees, and I'll give you a spoiler from the outset - I love them!

Safiya was the pattern that first tempted my to buy the book. The main version of the pattern in the book is for wide-legged slightly cropped trousers with an elasticated waistband, and there are variations of a fun wrap-front playsuit and these easy-fitting dungarees.

The dungarees have a relaxed fit with no fastenings, darts in the bodice section for a little shaping and a tie belt for as much or as little waist definition as you want.

When I ordered the book, I'd intended to get some light denim/chambray to make the dungarees so that they'd go with everything, but then I realised I had a much more interesting fabric option already sitting in my stash waiting to be used!

It's a cotton viscose twill from Seasalt (no longer in stock, but their other fabrics are here), and the combination of an excellent sale discount and a gift voucher that I'd been given for my birthday made it somewhat irresistible even though I wasn't sure what I'd do with it at the time. For a while now I've been trying not to buy fabric without a project in mind, but sometimes you have to bend the rules don't you?!

Anyway, it occurred to me that the weight of the fabric would be perfect for these dungarees. I had a feeling that the somewhat bold print might make them a bit of a love-it-or-hate-it kind of garment, but I was fairly confident that I'd end up loving it so I was willing to take the risk. Plus, spending lots of time at home due to being on coronavirus lock-down is a good time for sewing risk-taking I think!

The Safiya dungarees are slightly more time-consuming than some of the other projects in the book, but simply because there's more to sew rather than because they're complicated. If you've made a pair of pyjama trousers and can sew a dart, then there's nothing to be scared of about making the dungarees.

The instructions are very thorough and easy to follow. I did make a couple of small changes though - just for personal preference really. I've always found turning small tubes of fabric the right way out to be a bit of a hit and miss process (it either works perfectly or takes ages!), so when it came to making the straps I pressed the pieces in half WS together, pressed the seam allowances to the inside and then just topstitched them together. I also made fabric belt loops instead of the thread loops in the instructions, just because I prefer them on garments.

Sizing is a bit interesting for this pattern if, like me, your bust measurement puts you in a smaller size than your hips. As the dungarees are a pull-on style and have no fastenings, the bodice needs to be able to fit over your hips. Tilly recommends in the book that you don't grade between pattern sizes but I knew that if I did that then the top would end up being too big for my liking. My bust measurement is a size 5 and my hips are between a 5 and 6 so I thought it was worth trying grading between the sizes and making a toile. Thankfully it worked nicely - I can just get the dungarees on over my hips. If I couldn't, I'd probably rather make the pattern more complicated and put a zip in the side seam than make the top any bigger, as I think it would just look baggy on me.

Other than blending between sizes, I also lengthened the bodice by 1.5 inches and added 3 inches to the legs to make them full length. I really should have lengthened the legs a bit more though - they have a teeny tiny hem on them and are just about long enough. Next time I'd add at least an extra inch or maybe a bit more.

As I said at the beginning of the post, I love how these dungarees turned out! I wore them for the first time the other day and they're so comfy. My only slight problem as that I don't seem to have any short-sleeved t-shirts that go with them, but thankfully I found a piece of jersey in a charity shop a little while ago that I think will help to solve that problem! Isn't it good when that happens?!