Closet Case Patterns Ebony Dress

The dress I have to share with you today is a bit of a different one for me. Generally I'm a fan of fitted bodices/tops, waist shaping and full skirts. The Closet Case Patterns Ebony dress doesn't exactly fit that description! It's a modern swingy dress (also with cropped top and raglan sleeved tunic options), with plenty of the fullness that I like in skirts but absolutely zero shaping other than the shoulders being nicely fitted.

Closet Case Patterns Ebony dress - I'm wearing it with RTW leggings and a roll neck top here

So what made me want to try making an Ebony when it's really not my usual silhouette? Basically, the fabric that I've used. I bought it around this time last year hoping to make a dress for my mum for Christmas. The shop that I bought this from didn't offer swatches so I'd gambled on it because from the description and pictures, it looked like just what I wanted.

It was described as a medium weight ponte roma, but when it turned up it definitely wasn't like any other ponte roma I've ever seen/used. It's lightweight and very drapey, and you can see straight through it if you hold it up to the light. Annoyingly, not long after it arrived, I saw what looked like exactly the same fabric on another site, where it was described as a lightweight jersey and was significantly cheaper. I'm not mentioning the name of the shop where I bought it because I can't 100% remember which one it was now, and I wouldn't like to be critical of the wrong place!

Anyway, in addition to not offering swatches, the shop also didn't offer refunds/returns on fabric so I put the jersey away knowing that I'd find a use for it sometime. Much though it's not what I wanted for the project I had in mind at the time, it's a lovely quality fabric in itself.

A slightly blurry photo, but it shows the volume well!

At various points during the year, I got it out to think of what to make, and the Ebony dress seemed like the right project. Yes, it's not exactly my normal style but it does have plenty of swish/twirl factor (which is always good in my book!), and I knew that it would definitely be very comfy if nothing else. And I thought I might as well give it a try given that I had perfect fabric already - I'm firmly of the opinion that it's better to use fabric than leave it sitting on a shelf.

Making the Ebony dress was a breeze. There were only four pattern pieces (front, back, sleeves and neckband), so it was a fairly speedy project to sew, and the instructions were very clear and thorough so there was no risk of getting things wrong.

I made a straight size 12 based on my bust measurement as instructed in the pattern, and that worked out nicely. The shoulders and sleeves fit me well, and they're the only part of the Ebony dress that really need to fit. I did lengthen the dress by 1.5 inches (fairy standard for me), and if I make it again I'd probably lengthen the sleeves just a touch as well but they're fine as they are for this version.

So what's the verdict on the finished dress? Pretty positive! In terms of the Ebony pattern itself, I've got no criticisms. It's definitely a good one if you're looking to make a dress/top/tunic of this style. As for the dress on me, I'm surprised by how much I like it, especially with a roll neck top underneath it like I'm wearing in these photos. It's fair to say that it's not the most conventionally "flattering" dress on me (i.e. it definitely isn't particularly slimming), and I probably wouldn't want a whole wardrobe of them. As expected though, it is extremely comfortable and quite cosy when layered up so I'll definitely be wearing it this winter. Plus the red colour and general roominess will make it perfect to wear at Christmas! All in all, a successful experiment - wouldn't you say?

Closet Case Patterns Carolyn Pyjamas

The Closet Case Patterns Carolyn Pyjamas have been on my sewing list for a long time now. I bought the pattern getting on for two years ago, and included it on my #2017makenine list. I didn't get round to making it last year so it was the first choice for this year's make nine list, and I'm happy to say that I've now finally sewn some fancy new pyjamas.

The Carolyn pyjamas feature a notched collar button up top, with a curved hem, breast pocket and sleeve options, with straight legged trousers or shorts, which both have an elasticated waist, pockets and faux fly. The pyjamas are also designed to use pretty contrasting piping details.

I used the short sleeved top from view C and I had masses of fabric so was actually able to make both the cuff-free trousers from view A and the shorts from view C.

In some ways, my version is a bit of a minimalist version of the Carolyn set. I was treating this as a (very) wearable toile and because of that, I didn't want to spend ages making piping (I couldn't find any in quite the right colour) and adding it this time - although I fully intend to make some more with piping now that these have turned out to be a success.

As I wasn't using piping, there didn't seem much point in using the cuffs because they wouldn't stand out properly so I just lengthened the pattern pieces for the sleeves and shorts so that they included the extra length that would have been provided by the cuffs. I also didn't use the breast pocket on the top because I knew that I'd never use it and I think my print is busy enough that it doesn't need a decorative pocket.

In terms of sizing, I followed my measurements and made a size 12 for the top and size 14 for the waist and hips of the trousers/shorts. I've heard some other people mention that the trousers/shorts are closer fitting through the legs so I blended out to a size 16 through the thighs because my thighs are proportionately quite large (a genetic 'gift' that I apparently have my Grandpa to thank for!). Let's face it, fit isn't as important on PJs as it would be on some other garments, but I think they've turned out to be the right combination of comfortably loose without being shapeless and tent-like.

The fabric I used is a fun raspberry print cotton and, depending on your bed linen purchasing preferences, may be familiar to some people because it's actually from an Ikea duvet cover (hence having masses of fabric!) from a couple of years ago. I originally bought it intending to make a dress, but I think it's actually better as pyjamas.

Sewing the Carolyn pyjamas was a really enjoyable process. They're a nice combination of the simplicity that you would usually expect from sewing pyjama trousers with the addition of the slightly more interesting faux fly, and the notched collar and buttonholes/buttons of the top. And of course the piping if I hadn't chosen to omit it!

They're perhaps not as beginner-friendly as some other pyjama patterns, but the instructions are very thorough and mean that even the slightly more challenging elements of the pattern are in no way tricky or daunting if you just take everything step by step.

I love how my Carolyn pyjamas turned out. It may seem like a small thing, but one of my favourite parts of the pattern is that it uses thicker waist elastic than some other PJs, which makes them really comfy. You'll hopefully be seeing some more pyjamas from me at some point soon-ish -  my pyjama drawer had got a bit neglected and I've got the Nina Lee Piccadilly pattern and a fun cotton print waiting to be combined together. Wish me luck!