Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit

If you've been paying even the slightest attention to the online sewing community in recent months, you'll have seen a fair few versions of the pattern that I have to share today. The Paper Theory Zadie jumpsuit has been somewhat ubiquitous recently - as proven by the plethora of gorgeous projects shared on Instagrm under #zadiejumpsuit.

When things become so popular, it often puts me off them. Sometimes the popularity is justified though, and everyone who makes the Zadie jumpsuit seems to love it, and it genuinely looks good on all shapes and size so I thought this was one bandwagon that it was worth hopping on board. Boy, am I glad that I did!

The Zadie (just in case it needs any introduction!) is a relaxed easy-to-wear jumpsuit, with a wrap bodice, tie belt, wide cut legs and the option of wide three-quarter sleeves or the sleeveless, dropped shoulder version that I made. There are no fastenings, so it's a fairly simple project with the neckline binding probably being the most 'complicated' step.

Due to the fact that it's intended to have a relaxed fit, the Zadie jumpsuit has fairly generous proportions. According to the size chart, my body measurements put me in a 14 at the bust and between a 14 and 16 at the waist and hips. After consulting the finished garment measurements and some online reviews, I decided to size down and made a 12 at the bust blending out to a 14 at the waist and hips. I didn't make any sizing alterations (hooray for not having to lengthen anything!), and I'm pleased with how it turned out. There's no gaping at the neckline, and I think it gives me just the right level of looseness without verging into sack-like territory.

In case it helps for reference, my measurements are bust 38", waist 38", hips 42" and I'm about 5'9".

One thing I did like is that the instructions clearly state the height and cup size that the pattern is drafted for (often I end up searching around trying to find out the height that a pattern company uses!), and there are lengthen/shorten lines on both the bodice and trouser pieces. The pattern also lists the finished bicep measurements, which will be useful if (when!) I make a sleeved version.

The instructions are clear and easy to follow. They give you all the help you need, without being too wordy. It's a fairly simple pattern to construct so there aren't any particularly tricky steps - I would have thought that a confident beginner would be able to make a Zadie without too much difficulty.

I did stray a little bit from the instructions. I used stay tape on the neckline instead of staystitching, and I applied the tape before I started sewing the bodice. I thought it was a bit odd that the instructions didn't tell you to staystitch the neckline until the bodice was fully constructed - I think with my fabric I might have managed to stretch the neckline before then just by handling the pieces.

Also, instead of using double-fold bias binding to enclose the neckline as per the instructions, I used single-fold bias binding. I sewed it to the outside of the neckline using a small seam allowance, then flipped it to the inside and topstitched it down from the outside. I think that gives a cleaner finish with a patterned fabric in particular. And from a practical perspective, I'd have really struggled to get my fabric to press nicely into double-fold binding!

Talking of the fabric, it's a viscose twill from WeaverDee. I think it's a really nice weight for a Zadie jumpsuit - it's got a good drape, whilst still having a little bit more body to it than some viscose challis fabrics. It was fairly easy to use, although it does fray quite easily at the cut edges.

One thing to note about this pattern is that it doesn't overestimate the fabric required in the way that some patterns do. I had the exact amount of fabric required, and I had almost nothing left over.

All in all, I love how my Zadie jumpsuit turned out, and can definitely understand why this pattern has been getting so much love in the sewing community. It was an enjoyable project to sew, and it's a really comfortable garment to wear and I feel fantastic in it. What more could you want?!