Make With Mandi Penny Dress

The Make With Mandi Penny dress has been on my 'to sew' list for a while and I've been keeping my eye out for some interesting fabric to combine with the pattern. Finally I found the right candidate and I'm happy to share my Penny dress with you now!

The Penny is a woven dress with a loose-fitting bodice and tiered skirt with in-seam pockets. The bodice has a rounded neckline with two depths, and the sleeves can be made in long, mid or short lengths and are intended to have elasticated hems (more on that later!). The skirt has knee or midi length options.

For my version I used the short sleeves, higher neckline and midi skirt.

The finished bust measurements for the dress range from 34" to 55⅜".

I'll mention now that I was using the version of the pattern that was included with Simply Sewing magazine, so it's entirely possible that there may be some differences in the pattern directly from Make With Mandi. For example, the magazine version pattern accidentally omitted the pocket pattern pieces - if you need them, I found them available to download here.

I enjoyed sewing my Penny dress. The instructions had a good level of detail and I found them easy to follow. They're illustrated with photos which are mostly clear. One thing I thought was a bit odd was that the instructions refer to topstitching a couple of times, when what they're telling you to do would generally be called understitching. 

I found the order of the steps a bit odd - they have you start by stay stitching the neckline and sewing the bodice shoulder and side seams, then take you on to sewing the skirt, before returning to the bodice and sewing the facings and sleeves. There's nothing wrong with that, but it felt like it dotted about a bit to me so I followed the instructions, but did them in my own preferred order. 

The version of the pattern I used didn't give you any body measurements, just finished garment measurements. There's not necessarily anything wrong with that, but it would be helpful if they gave some guidance about how much ease the pattern is intended to have. I made a straight size 12, which gives me around 2" of ease at the bust, and the waist and hips are looser fitting.

I made a couple of alterations. The first was to lengthen the bodice by 1.5", which is a standard alteration for me. I also lowered the bust dart by 1", which is not something I normally have to do. I also chose to omit the elastic from the sleeve hems - when I made a toile it just didn't feel like the sleeve hems on the short sleeves were loose enough round my arms to need elastic and I like them as they are. 

The fabric that I used is a lightweight cotton that I bought from Koala Kreations. I really like the print - it's a bit different to anything else that I've seen around recently. I think it's a good weight of fabric for this pattern and should be nice and cool to wear over the summer.

All in all, I enjoyed sewing my Penny dress, it turned out really nicely, and I think it will be a welcome new addition to my wardrobe - I can see it being worn a lot!

True Bias Nova Jumpsuit

Some potential projects float around in my mind for a while as I try to find the right combination of pattern and fabric, and others suddenly present themselves as a fully formed idea that demands to be made immediately. This True Bias Nova jumpsuit definitely falls into the second category!

I was browsing the True Bias patterns when they were on sale a few weeks ago and the Nova jumpsuit suddenly caught my eye. I'd seen it many times before, but for some reason now it seemed like it would be a good addition to my wardrobe. The next day Sarah from Simple Life Fabrics posted some new fabrics on Instagram, including a jersey that seemed just right for giving the Nova a try.

The Nova is a knit jumpsuit with a fully faced neckline and armholes. The pattern gives you the option of a wide elastic wasitband, and can be made either as a short romper or with full-length legs with elastic at the ankle. 

The pattern comes in two size ranges with the 0-18 size range covering bust measurements from 32" to 44.5", and the 14-30 range going from bust measurements from 41.5" to 57.5".

Sewing the Nova was fairly straightforward and the jumpsuit came together pretty quickly. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, with a good level of detail. They're accompanied by clear diagrams that really help to explain the processes. The pattern seems well drafted to me - I appreciated the fact that the facing pieces are slightly smaller than the bodice pieces so they easily turn to the inside of the jumpsuit.

In terms of sizing, I made a 12 at the bust blending out to a 14 at the hips as recommended for my measurements. I lengthened my jumpsuit by a total of 5 inches (not surprising because True Bias patterns are drafted for 5'5", and I'm just under 5'9"), adding 2 inches each at the lengthen/shorten lines on the bodice and legs and 1 inch at the lengthen/shorten line on the crotch. 

I'm fairly happy with the fit. I initially thought it might be slightly loose around the top, but having worn it I think that I want that slight extra space to make it easy to get on and off. I'll probably mainly wear it with a t-shirt underneath as I am in these photos, so a bit of extra room is helpful for that too. 

The only change I think I'd consider if I make another version (a definite possibility!) would be to take out the inch I added at the crotch, and add an extra inch on the leg instead. I'm going to wear this version a few more times before I make any decisions on that though.

As I mentioned above, the fabric I used is a jersey from Simple Life Fabrics. The colourway I used doesn't seem to be in stock anymore, but it is available in two different colours (here and here). It's a really pretty print and I like the blue colour. It also seemed like a good option to use for my first version of the Nova because it was quite a good price (Sarah has an excellent Bargain Fabrics collection!) so I was happier to see this as a wearable toile than if I'd bought more expensive jersey. Thankfully my "toile" is definitely very wearable!

I'm glad the idea of making the Nova jumpsuit presented itself to me. It was a fun project to sew and I really like the finished jumpsuit. Unsurprisingly, it's very comfy and easy to wear - definite secret pyjamas! It's definitely a winner for me!